We stroll under beech trees, all elegance and pleasure, our fat babies in their lacy bonnets, their fancy prams just the same as Polish babies. The Polish men in gabardine suits tip their hats to us as we promenade. We nod our heads, slightly smiling. It is summer, 1935, in Warsaw. We are in the first frame of a film they show us in Poland. We are tourists in the homeland now, eighty years later, in the reconstructed palace of what they now call Old Town. A bomb falls from the sky. It drops down slowly toward us, the audience squirming in our seats. The bomb explodes, the city in ruins, the faces— they are our faces—terrified, emaciated, the fat babies starving and listless. We are herded into the Ghetto, pushed onto the trains. The city burns, bridges fall, and in another frame, people return by boat, ordinary people with pickaxes, shovels. They dig in rubble to rebuild the city. We go to Bialystok and are given a banquet at the Branicki Palace, where no Jew was ever admitted. We are toasted in the local bison grass vodka, serenaded by a klezmer band, who even managed a song in Yiddish. When the band stops playing, the bass player approaches. Will I send him a bialy from New York he asks? The roll will be stale. No matter, he says, it's a relic of the time when our town was prosperous. There were Jews who filled the public square, who sold bialys in the central market. I am astonished by this nostalgia for the Jews. Half of me thrills with ironic pleasure. The other is skeptical and bitter. The band begins to play again. I dance a little mazurka on my way to the bathroom. A Polish engineer sees me and jumps out of his chair. Let's all dance! The hora starts, and the Poles pull the Jews from their seats, holding hands in a circle, kicking up their feet, as if we were in another age, as if we were only dancing around the ballroom, as if we were only out of breath.
Dinner in the Branicki Palace
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