The Ristorante di Memoria has a zealot for a chef. The waitlist is ten stories high. The soup is a corridor to infancy, and because the smell of adored breasts makes you want to die there, entrees are mandatory. Waitstaff circle nervously in felt-soled shoes, discern how diners perceive the fullness of their glass. If you go, don’t fret about potential turns: there is adequate supervision and everyone’s safely masticating antiquity in the same room. When you are brave enough to order the memory of your mother venturing miles from the nursing home you placed her in, down a county highway into pasture (her pajama bottoms soft with dew, her face bloomed open), someone else will be reliving an orgasm so sepulchral it was many beats before they could remember letters, could fish their name out of the air.
What Frommer’s Left Out
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